Food, Wine

Sheet-Pan Chicken Thigh Classic

Why do we love sheet-pan cooking so much? Because it’s easy, it’s fast and it works. Ingredients mingle and merge during their time in the oven, building flavor and yielding dishes that deliver a big return on investment. There’s some serious synergy going on in that sheet pan, especially when chicken is involved. Sheet-pan chicken thighs’ savory juices infuse all the neighbors — chickpeas, carrots and lemon slices, in this case — while you’re relaxing and sipping wine in the kitchen. And with a parchment sheet lining the baking pan, cleanup is a cinch.

With sheet-pan cooking, chicken thighs are finally having their moment (although some of us have loved them forever). They’re less expensive than breasts, juicier and much more forgiving; it’s hard to overcook chicken thighs. They reheat well so you can double the recipe and enjoy it all over again the following day. And the meat’s deep, rich flavor makes the dish a slam-dunk with red wine.

Like California itself, this main course is a melting pot — a little bit Moroccan, a little bit Mexican, a little bit Spanish. If you’re a chile lover, add a sliced jalapeño. California Zinfandel has no trouble with dishes that pack a little heat. By switching up the vegetables (you’ll find suggestions with the recipe), you can make this a sheet pan chicken for all seasons.

CUTTING EDGE

California has plenty of rock star vintners but not as many vineyard workers’ names make it into the limelight. The skilled people who prune the vines in January and February are unsung superheroes. They often work long hours in chilly weather, and make critical pruning calls that affect wine quality for the duration of each vintage . To celebrate these workers and showcase their skills, some wine regions like Alexander Valley and Napa Valley stage pruning competitions. Expert judges determine the winners based on speed, precision and decision making; some contests have men’s and women’s divisions. These competitions reminds us how important good pruning is to what ends up in the bottle.

The Pour

Zinfandel prefers a warm growing region to achieve its full flavor potential. Most growers say the variety needs to ripen completely and reach a high Brix (a measure of sugar content) to develop its personality. Some of the most sought-after California Zins come from vineyards planted years ago or more the so-called old-vine Zinfandels that collectors seek. Ask a merchant to recommend one to experience the character that comes out of those gnarled and resilient vines. Amador County, Lodi,Paso Robles and Temecula Valley are all warm AVAs where California Zinfandel thrives.

A Moroccan spice rub seasons these chicken thighs, while the chicken flavors the chickpeas and carrots that cook underneath. The cooked lemon slices will be soft and delicious. but you can set them aside if you prefer. Pair with California Zinfandel or California Pinot Noir.

Sheet-Pan Chicken with Chickpeas, Carrots and Lemon

Ingredients

For the spice rub:

1 teaspoon sea salt
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
1 teaspoon ground cumin

4 bone-in chicken thighs, about 2 pounds (900 g)
1 can (15 oz/425 g) chickpeas, drained and rinsed
½ pound (225 g) carrots, thinly sliced on the diagonal
½ red onion, thinly sliced from stem to root
1 small lemon, halved lengthwise (quartered lengthwise if large), then sliced
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
½ teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon sea salt
Extra virgin olive oil
1/3 cup (10 g) coarsely chopped cilantro, plus a few whole leaves for garnish

Directions

In a small bowl, combine the spice rub ingredients. Sprinkle all over the chicken and set aside.
Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Line a 9 x 12-inch (23 x 30 cm) rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.
In a bowl, combine the chickpeas, carrots, red onion, lemon, garlic, cumin, salt and 1 tablespoon olive oil. Toss to mix, then arrange in the baking sheet in an even layer. Arrange the chicken thighs on top, not touching, and drizzle 1 teaspoon olive oil on top of each one.
Bake on a center rack for 40 minutes. With tongs, set the chicken aside on a plate. Add the chopped cilantro to the vegetables and stir to mix and moisten everything with the chicken juices. Remake the bed of vegetables and replace the chicken on top. Bake for 5 minutes longer. Remove from the oven and let rest 5 minutes to allow the chicken juices to settle. Tilt the sheet pan and spoon some of the juices over the chicken.
Transfer to a serving platter or to individual dinner plates and garnish with cilantro leaves.