Food, Wine

Spring on Your Plate

Breaking good: Bud break—when grapevines emerge from winter dormancy and launch their growing season—happens earlier in some locations than others. But by mid-March, California vineyards are usually cloaked in soft green leaves. It’s hard to believe, looking at those delicate shoots, that they will be four feet long in no time and harvest is only six months away. What a sprint!

Grape growers keep one eye on the nightly forecast in March; if frost threatens, they have to spring into action. Many rely on computerized weather stations in the vineyard to alert them—usually in the middle of the night—that it’s time to mobilize frost protection. Some use wind machines to mix the cold air near the ground with the warmer air above it, providing a few degrees of protection. Others turn on sprinklers briefly; as the water freezes, it generates warmth. But determining precisely when to do this is a skilled judgment call.

“Spring green” doesn’t just describe vineyards. Your favorite produce market is probably filled with green options, too: asparagus, artichokes, arugula, leeks and tender, deep-green chard. Now is prime time to roast some of those slim asparagus spears and pile them on toast with creamy goat cheese. Don’t love goat cheese? Burrata or mozzarella can step in. A dab of pistachio-lemon pesto and a glass of California wine make it a masterpiece.

TEN YEARS AND COUNTING

Certified California Sustainable Winegrowing marks its tenth birthday this year—a full decade of steady progress toward sustainability in the state’s wine industry. The program’s accomplishments are evident in the numbers: more vineyards and wineries seeking sustainable certification, more wine made in accordance with sustainable practices. A new report updates what Certified Vineyards and Wineries have done in areas like water and energy efficiency, employee relations, community involvement, soil health, waste reduction and pest management. There is always more to do, but this look back shows how much can be achieved when individual enterprises commit to shared goals.

The Pour

Which Wine?

Some people think asparagus is a challenging match for wine, which might be true when the spears stand alone. But add the lively acidity of goat cheese, a whiff of lemon zest, some buttery pistachios and pungent basil, and you greatly expand the pairing possibilities. A California Riesling from one of the state’s cooler spots, such as the northern Anderson Valley, has the steely zip and freshness to complement tangy goat cheese and a delicacy that makes it an excellent aperitif. Launch a spring dinner with asparagus bruschetta and a glass of California Riesling and turn any pairing skeptics into believers.

Meet the Grapes: Explore more wine pairings

California’s asparagus season is short so it’s a good idea to get your fill while you can. When you crave a change-up from plain steamed or roasted asparagus, try them this way: on top of crunchy toast with warm, creamy goat cheese and a dollop of fragrant pesto. Serve as a hearty appetizer at a dinner party or enjoy for lunch with a green salad. Pair with California Riesling, California rosé or California Sauvignon Blanc.

Bruschetta with Warm Goat Cheese, Roasted Asparagus, and Pistachio Pesto

Ingredients

For the pesto:

¼ cup (35 g) raw pistachios
16 large basil leaves
1 small clove garlic, sliced
¼ cup (60 ml) extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
Sea salt
Fresh lemon juice

2 dozen very slender asparagus, tough ends removed
4 slices sourdough bread, each about 4 by 3 inches (10 by 7.5 cm) and ½ inch (12 mm) thick
1 tablespoon plus 2 to 3 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing
Sea salt
¼ pound (110 g) fresh goat cheese with no rind

Directions

Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C).
Make the pesto: In a food processor, combine the pistachios, basil, garlic, and olive oil and pulse until the basil and nuts are finely chopped but do not grind to a paste. Transfer the pesto to a bowl and stir in the lemon zest and salt to taste. Add a few drops of lemon juice to balance the flavor.
If necessary, trim the asparagus spears so they are no longer than the bread. Place them on a baking sheet and toss with enough olive oil to coat them lightly, about 2 to 3 teaspoons. Sprinkle with salt and roast until they are tender and starting to char, about 8 minutes.
If the goat cheese is firm enough to slice, cut into three or four evenly thick slices and place them in a lightly oiled baking dish just large enough to hold them. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon olive oil. If the goat cheese is too soft to slice, spoon it into a lightly oiled baking dish, flattening it slightly with the back of a spoon, and drizzle with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Bake until the goat cheese quivers when touched, like a soft custard, about 5 minutes.
Toast the bread. Brush one side of each toast with olive oil. Divide the warm cheese among the toasts, spreading it evenly. Top each toast with asparagus and a dollop of pesto, dividing evenly. Serve immediately.