Food, Wine

Focaccia Time

Evoo for every day: Extra virgin olive oil used to be that condiment that cooks dispensed by the drop. Sauté with it? Are you kidding? Too pricey for that. But California olive growers have turned that notion on its head. They have a new way of planting and cultivating olive trees that brings the cost way down. They grow them like wine grapes, on trellises, so they don’t have to be hand-harvested (a big part of the cost). Now we can use California extra virgin olive oil freely; reap the health benefits (it’s rich in antioxidants); enjoy its bold, zesty flavor; and make the tastiest focaccia ever.

Focaccia needs olive oil to make it soft and tender. And only extra virgin olive oil will make it delicious. What goes on top is up to you. Scatter olives and rosemary over the dough and you’ll have a focaccia that’s ideal for wine o’clock, whenever that is at your house. Set out some fresh goat cheese. Open a chilled California rosé. You’re a genius.

THE BIG REVEAL

Regular wine consumers care a lot about sustainability. That’s the bottom line from new research, conducted this spring by Wine Intelligence, into how shoppers view sustainable winegrowing. A survey of 2,000 regular drinkers, combined with results from focus groups, revealed that a large majority is interested in purchasing sustainable wine in the future, will pay more for it (an average of $3 more per bottle), and views certification logos on wine labels as helpful and credible. Younger consumers especially—Millennials and Gen Z respondents of legal drinking age—take note of sustainable practices and like to see sustainable certification on wine.

The Pour

Which Wine?

When you have guests over for dinner, the “welcome pour” makes a big impression. Get some California rosé into those glasses immediately and people will remember your hospitality long after they’ve forgotten whether the salmon was perfectly cooked. California vintners make refreshing rosés from red grapes of every type, from Pinot Noir to Zinfandel to Cabernet Sauvignon. Play the field to find the brands you love. The most popular ones disappear by midsummer, so stash away a few bottles to make sure you’re covered.

Meet the Grapes: Explore more wine pairings

Welcome guests to your home for dinner with a glass of California rosé and a slice of warm olive focaccia. If you’ve baked the focaccia hours before, you can reheat it quickly in a hot oven, although it’s plenty tasty at room temperature, too. Pack it on a picnic or a hike with your favorite salumi and cheeses. Or adapt the topping to showcase a seasonal fresh vegetable like halved cherry tomatoes or strips of roasted sweet pepper. Adding cooked potato to the dough produces an especially moist and tasty result.

Potato Focaccia with Olives and Rosemary

Ingredients

1⁄2 pound (250 g) Yukon Gold potatoes, unpeeled
1 1⁄2 teaspoons active dry yeast
3 3⁄4 cups (465 g) unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for kneading
2 1⁄2 teaspoons (8 g) kosher or sea salt, plus more for sprinkling
1⁄4 cup (60 ml) extra virgin olive oil, plus more for coating and brushing
24 California olives, pitted and halved
1 1⁄2 teaspoons finely minced fresh rosemary or dried oregano, finely crumbled

Makes one 11-by-17-inch (28 by-43 cm) focaccia

Directions

Put the potatoes in a small saucepan and add water to cover by 1 inch (2.5 cm). Do not add salt. Bring to a simmer over high heat, adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, and cook until the potatoes are tender when pierced, 15 minutes or more, depending on size.

Remove from the heat, set aside 1 1∕3 cups (330 ml) of the potato water, and then drain the potatoes. When cool enough to handle, peel the potatoes and pass them through a ricer or food mill fitted with a fine disk into a bowl. If you don’t have a ricer or food mill, mash the potatoes well with a potato masher.

Refrigerate the potato water until it cools to 105° to 115°F (40° to 46°C). Put 1∕3 cup (80 ml) of the cooled potato water in a large bowl and sprinkle the yeast over it. Let soften for about 3 minutes, then whisk with a fork to dissolve and let stand until bubbly, about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a bowl, combine the flour and salt and whisk to blend.

Add the olive oil, riced potato, and the remaining 1 cup (250 ml) potato water to the proofed yeast. Stir to combine, then add the flour gradually, stirring with a wooden spoon until the dough clears the sides of the bowl. Keeping the dough in the bowl, knead it gently by hand until smooth, adding just enough additional flour to keep it from sticking to your hand. You should not need more than 1 to 2 tablespoons. Shape the dough into a ball and coat lightly with olive oil. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and let the dough rise until doubled, 1 1∕2 to 2 hours.

Punch the dough down. Using 1 tablespoon olive oil, grease the bottom and sides of an 11-by-17-inch (28-by-43 cm) rimmed baking sheet. Transfer the dough to the baking sheet. With well-oiled fingers, poke and prod the dough into a rectangle that fits the pan. The dough is elastic and will want to spring back. If it resists your attempts to flatten it enough to cover the pan, let it rest for 5 minutes and try again. If it still springs back from the edges, let it rest for 5 minutes longer and try once more. You should be able to flatten it sufficiently after a couple of rests, but don’t worry if the dough doesn’t completely fill the pan. Let rise, uncovered, until puffy, about 1 1∕2 hours.

While the dough rises, preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). If you have a pizza stone (or baking tiles), put it in the oven on the middle rack to preheat—ideally for at least 30 minutes before baking.

Arrange the olives, evenly spaced, on the surface of the focaccia, then gently press them into place. Brush the surface of the dough with 1 tablespoon olive oil, then scatter the rosemary and a little salt on top. Place the pan on the baking stone, if using, and bake until the focaccia is golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes, rotating the baking sheet back to front halfway through.

Immediately slide a long metal offset spatula under the focaccia to make sure it is not sticking to the baking sheet, then slide the focaccia onto a rack to cool. Slice into desired portions with a bread knife and serve warm or at room temperature.