Game Day with California Wines

Directions

• Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Put the grapes in a baking dish, add 1 teaspoon olive oil and sprinkle lightly with salt. Stir to coat the grapes with oil. Tuck 2 strips of lemon zest under the grapes. Bake until the grapes are sizzling, softened and starting to release some juice but have not collapsed, 12 to 18 minutes (watch closely to avoid overcooking). Let cool for about 5 minutes. 
• Put the ricotta in a bowl and stir in salt and pepper to taste. 
• Toast the bread on both sides. Drizzle 1 side of each slice with olive oil, then top with ricotta, spreading it evenly. You may not need all the ricotta, depending on the size of your toasts. Spoon the warm grapes on top, dividing them evenly. Spoon any juices on top. With a microplane, grate a little lemon zest over each toast, drizzle with a few more drops of olive oil, then garnish with mint leaves. Serve immediately. 

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Directions

Make the burgers: Put the beef in a bowl and add the salt, garlic powder, and several grinds of black pepper. Mix quickly with your hands; try not to overwork the mixture. Divide into four equal portions, each 6 ounces (185 g), and shape into balls. Flatten each ball into a round patty about 3∕4 inch (2 cm) thick. Make the patties a little thinner in the center. They shrink a bit when cooked, and this step ensures they will be of even thickness after cooking. Place them on a tray and refrigerate.

Make the mayonnaise: Put the mayonnaise in a small bowl. If it is store-bought, whisk in the olive oil to improve the flavor. Whisk in the garlic and chile. Taste and add more chile if you like. Cover and refrigerate until needed.

Preheat the broiler. Heat a large cast-iron frying pan over medium heat. Add the olive oil and swirl to coat the bottom of the pan. When the oil is hot, add the patties and fry until nicely browned and done to your taste, flipping them with a spatula two or three times and adjusting the heat to keep them from getting too crusty on either side. For medium doneness, the total cooking time will be about 10 minutes.

Set the burgers aside on a platter to rest for about 3 minutes. Meanwhile, toast the buns, cut side up, under the broiler. Halve, pit, and peel the avocado and slice thinly.

Spread chipotle mayonnaise on both halves of the toasted buns. Top the bottom half of each bun with a burger. Divide the avocado slices evenly among the burgers. Sprinkle the avocado lightly with salt and a squeeze of lime. Top with a tuft of cilantro leaves, then with a lettuce leaf, and finally the top half of the bun. Cut in half with a serrated knife and serve immediately.

Recommended Pairings

Directions

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Prepare a large bowl of ice water. Working in 3 batches of 6 eggs each, use a large spoon to lower the eggs one at a time into the boiling water, reducing the heat to keep the water from jostling the eggs against the pan and cracking them. The water must boil but not too vigorously. Simmer for 10 minutes exactly, then use a large slotted spoon to transfer the eggs to the ice water. Remove when cool and peel. Cut in half lengthwise and scoop the yolks into a bowl.

Add the mayonnaise and mustard to the yolks and mix vigorously with a fork or spoon until creamy and completely smooth, adding a touch more mayonnaise if necessary. Resist the temptation to use a food processor or mixer, which could cause the filling to break; the filling will become smooth if you work it persistently. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Divide the mixture evenly among 3 bowls. You should have about 2/3 cup (150 ml) per bowl.

For the smoked trout deviled eggs: Stir in the horseradish, then fill 1 dozen egg halves with the mixture, using a spoon or a piping bag fitted with a star tip. Top each egg half with a small piece of smoked trout and garnish with a wisp of dill.

For the harissa deviled eggs: Stir in the harissa paste, adding more if desired. Fill 1 dozen egg halves with the mixture, using a spoon or a piping bag fitted with a star tip. Garnish each egg half with a small cilantro leaf and a sprinkle of chili or paprika.

For the caviar deviled eggs: Stir in the chives, then fill 1 dozen egg halves with the mixture, using a spoon or a piping bag fitted with a star tip. Top each egg half with a small spoonful of caviar, dividing it evenly.

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